- Dog Bathing Tips
- How to bathe a dog?
- (A) How often do you give a dog a bath?
- (B) What if Your Dog Is Terrified?
- (C) Brush the dog well first.
- (E) Prepare a bath bucket beforehand.
- (F) Where to give the dog bath?
- (E) Dog bath procedures
- (F) Drying the Dog
- How to bathe a dog?
Dog Bathing Tips
Follow the dog bathing tips because most dogs need a bath about four to six times a year in order to curb any unpleasant body odor. Once again, it is helpful to start this with a young dog so that later in life baths will not frighten him.
1- The first tip from dog bathing tips is bringing the dog into the bathroom yourself.
Don’t try to call or coax your dog into the bathroom, because after the first time she gets a bath she’s going to know exactly what you’re up to with that armful of equipment.
She may even enjoy the bath once she’s in, but dogs aren’t generally going to be gung-ho about coming into the bathing area. So why make it a test of wills? Just clip on her leash and have her follow you in without making a big deal about it.
2- The 2nd tip from dog bathing tips is shutting the bathroom door behind you. Close off all escape routes beforehand.
3- The 3rd tip from dog bathing tips is using warm water, never hot. With a dog who is itchy, try cool water only.
4- The 4th tip from dog bathing tips is that cotton balls in the ears aren’t necessary, although some people feel better putting them in there. If you are rinsing from above and saving the head until last, there’s really not much chance of water getting into the ears.
5- The 5th tip from dog bathing tips is using only a dab of shampoo. It is helpful to squeeze the shampoo into a rubber brush or onto a clean sponge and scrub it around on the dog that way, rather than putting a handful of shampoo directly on his back and then trying to spread it around. It does not take a large quantity of shampoo to clean a dog, nor does it have to foam up into a big lather.
6- The 6th tip from dog bathing tips is putting oil in the eyes or ointment around them is something that groomers will sometimes do, but you can just hold your hand above the dog’s eyes as you rinse above them. Dogs will instinctively shut their eyes if water is coming from above, so the chance of shampoo getting in their eyes is pretty slim.
7- The 7th tip from dog bathing tips is washing the head last and without soap or much water. Dogs really don’t like water on their faces. They shake themselves the most when their heads are wet, so you want to save the head until last. But you don’t have to drench the face, either. Use an old washcloth or disposal cloth, wring it out to dampness, and wipe firmly around the face and muzzle without any soap, so that you don’t have to put her through misery with a ton of rinsing.
8- The 8th tip from dog bathing tips is not forgetting the underside of the dog—the armpits, belly, chest and feet all need to be soaped, rubbed and fully rinsed.
9- The 9th tip from dog bathing tips is rinsing is very important. Shampoo or conditioner left in the dog’s coat can be a real irritant to the skin.
How to bathe a dog?
(A) How often do you give a dog a bath?
One of the most important tip from dog bathing tip is detecting frequent bathing times. Frequent bathing hasn’t yet been embraced by most dog owners as a concept, but people are coming around. For years people were told that it was a bad idea to wash a dog too often—that it stripped their coats’ natural oils or something—so they should only be bathed a couple of times a year.
This meant a lot of greasy, smelly dogs who were unpleasant to touch. What puts the shine in a dog’s coat is high-quality food, more than bathing or the lack of it. Also, male hormones can give an animal a shinier coat: in horses, a stallion always has an extra-shiny coat, and the same is often true for intact dogs (although this is obviously no reason to forgo neutering a dog).
A newly bathed dog is a pleasure to touch, smell and look at: smooth to the touch, odor-free and shiny or fluffy-looking, depending on the type of coat.
You Can Bathe Your Dog as Often as Once a Week.
Depending on what kind of life your dog has, if you use a good-quality dog shampoo you can even bathe her weekly. All dogs get dirty pretty quickly— country dogs roll in nasty things and splash through mud and puddles and lie down in dusty places.
City dogs walk on streets and in gutters covered in unspeakable grime—and even if it’s only their paws, stomachs and muzzles that touch it, that doesn’t make it any less filthy.
Frequent Bathing Is Good for Human Allergy Sufferers.
Washing away the dander on a dog’s skin removes what most people are allergic to: the dead skin cells. Weekly baths can make living with a dog possible for people with dog allergies.
At Least Once a Month Is a Good Plan.
If your dog does not look, feel or smell dirty to you, then mark your calendar and give him a bath once a month anyway. If other people spend time around your dog, just for the heck of it ask their opinion of his cleanliness, to make sure it isn’t your blind adoration of your dog that is keeping you from the tub.
(B) What if Your Dog Is Terrified?
The most important step for how to bathe a dog is handling terrified dog. Most dogs don’t really love getting a bath—which is a huge understatement for those who absolutely detest getting bathed.
Many of my dogs have run into another room at just the sight of me carrying a stack of their bath towels and a bottle of shampoo—although they submit with a shrug when I go get them for their bath.
If your dog is bath-phobic, you’ll know because he will do some version of cowering, slinking and trembling as he gets nearer to the bathroom. For some dogs, a bath is so traumatic that their personality can even change during the bathing process.
Attitude is everything: You can positively affect the process and bring about a change in your dog’s reaction just by how you handle it. Be calm and pleasant about the upcoming bath—speak soothingly in a cheerful voice from the moment you gather the towels.
Keep that demeanor right through the washing and drying, never getting rough or cross. This is the way to slowly but surely change a freaked-out, toenails-digging-into-the-floor, trembling dog into one who walks calmly into the shower or tub and lets you do what you have to do, resigned to his fate.
Both Jazzy and Scooby Doo were so terrified the first time when I led them into the shower (from previous horrible experiences, I have to assume) that Scooby threw up and Jazzy lay down outside the shower and would not stand up to enter under her own steam.
Take the dog to the shower on a leash: Do not try to call the dog to you or into the bathroom. There is no way that a frightened dog should be expected to overcome his emotions and follow obedience commands into the face of the very thing that terrifies him.
Bring along some treats if you think some sugar will make the medicine go down more easily. If you simply clip on a nylon leash and walk purposefully into the bathroom using a friendly, encouraging voice, the dog will have little choice but to follow.
You need to have a leash on the dog during the bath anyway, so you might as well put it on early. You don’t want to drag the dog, but don’t stop to coax or sweet-talk him, either. It’s a no-choice situation for him.
Do the bathing yourself: Do everything you can to avoid taking a fearful dog to a grooming establishment.
(C) Brush the dog well first.
The first step for how to bathe a dog is brushing a dog beforehand leaves less hair to wash and dry, if some of it is only going to fall out anyway. Pre-brushing also puts less dog hair in your drain.If there are tangles, they will only get worse once wet.
If the dog is really badly tangled, you may have to take him to a professional groomer, or you’ll just wind up with a problem that you can’t solve without scissors.
Mats Pose a Problem.
Matting generally occurs in the armpits, between the toes and behind the ears. Mats can get tight to the skin and are risky to cut out, since you could cut skin. However, a mat can’t be left there, either.
Mats will eventually become sores— and sores can become infected. Depending on the severity of your dog’s matting, you may want a professional groomer or the vet to remove the matted hair.
If you have a dog with long, silky hair, or one who already has mats, you can use a detangler like Johnson’s No More Tangles for kids (or a similar dog product) beforehand. Try spraying it on the bad areas, work it in with your fingers and then continue with the bathing process.
(E) Prepare a bath bucket beforehand.
The 2nd step for how to bathe a dog is preparing a bath bucket beforehand which includes:
1-Get All the Cleaning Supplies Together Before You Give the Bath.
For example, you can get one of those cheap plastic buckets from a paint store that are small but wide enough to hold everything you’ll need. If you have a place to store your bath bucket, then whenever it’s bath time all you have to do is grab the bucket and go.
In the bucket you can keep a rubber scrubber (if you have a short-haired dog) or a Zoom Groom, which also works to get the loose hair from a medium-haired (Golden Retriever-type) dog.
I’ve had good luck with the Zoom Groom, a patented grooming tool that has hard-rubber protrusions that gently grab dead hair. Any rubber grooming brush with lots of rubber bristles is also a great way to distribute shampoo evenly.
2-What You’ll Need
At least three towels per medium-size dog. Collect a pile of your old bath towels or beach towels, but keep in mind that although large towels sound appealing, they aren’t as manageable to work with.
You’ll get water off with the first towel, which you can then put down on the bathroom floor to collect the excess water and keep the dog from slipping in it. Or you may want to use a bath mat or large towel alongside the tub or outside the stall shower for spills and “after-shake.”
Artificial chamois towels can also work well and leave you with less to clean up, because there are no towels to wash and dry. These super- absorbent dog towels are like the synthetic chamois you use to dry your car. They soak up a significant amount of water, and after they’re wrung cut, they dry quickly.
You may want a rubber bath mat to put inside the tub if you think your dog may slip and slide. A tub mat is a good idea even if your tub has those (usually slippery) non-slip treads. If a dog gets spooked by sliding around, it’s going to make giving the next bath a lot harder. If you don’t have a mat, put a bath towel on the bottom of the tub.
A restraint system for the bathtub is a great way to keep the dog where you want so you can just concentrate on giving the bath, not on keeping him inside the tub.
They consist of one or more rubber suction cups that attach to the tub with a cushioned, lasso-style built-in collar, or a clip that attaches to the dog’s own collar. EzyBathe and Hold ’Em Bathing Restraint (both available from Jeffers Pet Products), got the highest ratings when the Whole Dog Journal rated bath products.
Use a nylon collar for baths, since leather will get ruined in the process. If your dog usually wears a fancier collar, get a cheap nylon one just for the bath. If his normal one is nylon, think of the bath as a free collar cleaning.
A pet shower head is the most important item you’ll need if you are giving a tub bath, since thorough removal of bathing products is necessary to avoid skin irritation. A contraption like this is invaluable for wetting down but especially for rinsing off a dog—otherwise you waste time dumping bowls of water on the dog, which rarely gets a longer- haired dog completely rinsed.
You can probably find a hose and spray head with a diverter at a home-improvement or hardware store, and they can be installed with a wrench in place of your usual showerhead.
Otherwise, there is a “pet shower” made expressly for this purpose (for around $20 from The Dog’s Outfitter). It will also be useful for you or for children whose hair you want to rinse in the tub, or just to use to spray-clean the bath.
3-What Shampoo to Use for dog bathing?
Any mild dog shampoo will be fine. There are so many on the market. Just read the labels and look for nice ingredients such as aloe, tea-tree oil and oatmeal, all of which are soothing.
If your dog has any kind of skin condition, get your vet’s advice before trying any kind of bath product on her. Vets often carry medicated shampoos that treat specific irritations.
If the skin problems are mild, buy shampoos especially for sensitive skin and see which ones give you the best result.
What to Avoid in Dog Shampoos
a- Can I use human shampoo on a dog: You cannot use a human shampoo, even the best quality. The PH of a dog’s skin and hair is different from ours, and most are too harsh for dogs —even baby shampoo. If you are in an emergency situation and have to use human shampoo, dilute it by half with water.
b- Do not use a flea/tick shampoo if you already use a product such as Frontline or have a flea collar on your dog. You are not supposed to mix or double-up on these products, which can be toxic for your pet if more than one is used at a time.
So-called flea shampoo doesn’t actually control fleas much better than regular shampoo does: they both wash away the insects, but there’s no real lasting effect. The control of fleas has more to do with eliminating them from the immediate environment, anyway.
c- Citrus oils, citronella or d-Limonene in shampoos may deter fleas for a while, but these ingredients can irritate the skin and remove natural oils, especially if used often.
d- Itchy skin/dandruff shampoos advertise that they are medicated or skin- soothing, but they may contain unsafe ingredients. Dandruff shampoos with coal tar (a possible carcinogen) should only be used for dogs with heavy scaling (dandruff). Otherwise coal tar can cause more dryness and itching. Aloe vera, coconut oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil and oatmeal are gentler ingredients that may relieve itchiness.
e- Sulfur-based ingredients such as sodium laurel sulfate and other similar ingredients can be effective in calming itchiness—unless you use them too much, in which case they can actually make the itch worse. You can substitute—or even alternate with—the alternative anti-itch shampoo ingredients mentioned above.
f- Products should not have fragrances that are pleasant to humans because dogs are not comfortable if they have an unnatural smell on them. A fragranced shampoo will likely have a reverse effect from what you wanted: the dog may want to roll in the nearest nasty thing if this shampoo leaves him smelling the way you do stepping out of the shower.
g- Silicone derivatives and other “coat-glossing” ingredients in shampoos can make a dog’s coat shiny and soft, but they can also build up on the hair and skin, interfering with their natural balance.
(F) Where to give the dog bath?
The 3rd step for how to bathe a dog is detecting the dog bath place.
Small to Medium Dogs
If you have a small to medium dog, you can just lift the dog into the bathtub and either bend over or crouch down beside her. If she’s small enough, you may want to use the kitchen sink, especially if you have a sprayer attachment, which will be useful for rinsing (and rinsing out the sink afterward, too!).
Medium to Large Dogs
If you have a medium to large dog, you may want to use a stall shower, if you have one, or get into the tub with the dog and use the shower attachment while you’re standing. Since you can’t usually lift a larger dog, it is sometimes easier to lift up both her front feet and put them in the tub. Then lift her hind legs and swing them over the side and into the tub.
(E) Dog bath procedures
The 4th step for how to bathe a dog is following these recommended steps which include:
Step 1: If your dog is small enough, you may be able to use a plastic baby bath in which to wash him. Otherwise, you will have to find something larger or wash him standing outside in the backyard, providing he’s tethered somehow and not able just to run away. You will also need a clean bucket or jug, a plastic cup, an old towel, and a canine shampoo.
Step 2: Begin by filling the jug with tepid water and pouring some of this into the bath. Then carefully lift your dog into the bath, giving him plenty of reassurance. Start to wet his legs, using your hand to bale the water up over his body. He may not like this and try to leap out, but you must keep him under control.
Step 3: Use the jug to pour water over his back, moving from his hindquarters toward his head and stopping at his neck. Most dogs will allow their body to be soaked with water, but they often resent their head being wet, so leave this until last.
Step 4: Work the shampoo into your dog’s coat just as if you were washing your own hair. Create a lather, taking great care to avoid his eyes. It may be better to wipe his face with a moist towel rather than trying to shampoo it at all.
Step 5: Rinse the shampoo out thoroughly by pouring clean water from the jug over the soapy areas. If your dog is reasonably cooperative, you may be able to use a hose on low power instead, which is more effective, although it is not ideal to use cold water.
Step 6: When you have finished rinsing off your dog’s coat, lift him out of the bath and stand back. The first thing he will do is shake his body vigorously to remove as much water as possible from his coat. Afterward, call him to you, throw a towel over him, and take him indoors so you can dry his fur off to prevent him from developing a chill.
(F) Drying the Dog
The 5th step for how to bathe a dog is choosing drying dog method.
Dry thoroughly If the dog isn’t fully dry (and sometimes even if he is) his first inclination will be to find a pile of something to roll in that will return him to his pre-bath condition! Keep him inside or on his leash until he is fully dry. Drying off is an important part of the bath.
Let the dog shake. A dog can get a lot more water off than you can. Put a towel draped loosely over the dog when he first shakes, before you begin to dry him off.
A hair-dryer is unpleasant for many dogs. However, you can accustom yours to it by any of the desensitization methods recommended in the book. A dryer does keep a silky dog’s long hair from tangling and makes brushing easier. However, a dryer can aggravate a dog’s skin if it is itchy, flaky or dry.
White dogs have special needs. A white coat is hard to keep white, especially on a long-haired dog whose coat touches the ground and whose beard is always in food and water. However, there are shampoos especially for this. The shampoos will say they have “optical enhancers,” which is fine. You just don’t want any product containing bleach or peroxide.
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